Couple of hours and was motivated to drill and fit the middle and rear prop-catchers. Turns out when I was preparing things that the holes on the pieces are not exactly where they should, one is a millimetre or two too big and would foul the ally plate that covers the tunnel... Spent a bit of time looking at the parts and trying to figure out what I should do.
Decision comes that I will not fit the middle catcher and the rear one may be redesigned and redone as an inverted U like the one on the front. I'm still unsure. Steve at Aries thinks there is no need for catchers, other users I know haven't fitted one and I'm afraid of being driven based on horror stories. Not all chassis have the same configuration on the tunnel, regarding structure placement, and it actually may be moot wit this specific design.
Needed to get something done for motivation. With a sanding tip on the drill, "relocated" a bit one of the holes on the floor for the passenger seat. It is now correctly placed and the seat can be secured with all four bolts.
Last task was to drill a few holes on the inner beam of the tunnel to hold the p-clips that secure the electrical loom. All done bar two that required me to take off the dash. It was already lunch time so this had to be left for another day.
Sunday, October 14, 2012
Saturday, September 29, 2012
Finish Off Fuel Lines, Water Temp Sensor, Disassembling
I had two pipe entries on my tank that I didn't know how to close. One seemed to be just to let air in, the other was the return in case I had an injected engine. But how should I close them to prevent gas from coming out when sloshed around?
A fellow builder told me one entry should be blanked with a bit of pipe terminated with a bolt. The other required a roll-over valve. After much looking around in Portugal, had to order it from the UK. RaceParts had the best deal (Part No TPV8). With that here, some pipe, bracers and a bolt (and a lot more time than I thought) and it was all done. The valve is too near the roll-bar stay so I added a bit of bubble wrap on the stay and held the valve against it with a plastic wrap.
Next thing was to try to make a good earth for the water temp sensor. The sensor has been reading "0º C" since day one. The casing did not have a point to add an earth. So I wrapped some wire (eye-style) around the sensor thread and connected the other side to a bolt that holds the rad against the chassis. Turned the Digidash on and finally I have a temperature reading for the water!
Now I just need to figure out why I get no oil pressure. That one has a earth on the casing that holds it and the oil temperature sensor, that is giving a reading.
Using the vice-grip I rotated one of the steering arms to get both with the same number of threads exposed (counting from the ball-joint). Although I'll have to get a toe measurement and adjustment, at least having them equal is better than one pointing inwards when the other goes in front... Went around with the mobile's inclinometer app on the wheels and seems all have less than one degree of camber. Either the mobile is not sensitive enough to measure this or I'll just have to adjust toe in all four wheels.
Last tasks were disassembling things. Took and stored away the exhaust can. Unbolted the seats. This opens up my path to the next tasks, putting the prop-catchers, p-clips and rivnuts on the central tunnel. But after 4 hours I needed a break.
A fellow builder told me one entry should be blanked with a bit of pipe terminated with a bolt. The other required a roll-over valve. After much looking around in Portugal, had to order it from the UK. RaceParts had the best deal (Part No TPV8). With that here, some pipe, bracers and a bolt (and a lot more time than I thought) and it was all done. The valve is too near the roll-bar stay so I added a bit of bubble wrap on the stay and held the valve against it with a plastic wrap.
Using the vice-grip I rotated one of the steering arms to get both with the same number of threads exposed (counting from the ball-joint). Although I'll have to get a toe measurement and adjustment, at least having them equal is better than one pointing inwards when the other goes in front... Went around with the mobile's inclinometer app on the wheels and seems all have less than one degree of camber. Either the mobile is not sensitive enough to measure this or I'll just have to adjust toe in all four wheels.
Last tasks were disassembling things. Took and stored away the exhaust can. Unbolted the seats. This opens up my path to the next tasks, putting the prop-catchers, p-clips and rivnuts on the central tunnel. But after 4 hours I needed a break.
Sunday, September 16, 2012
Final Fan Position and Front Prop-catcher Done!
My morning on the car started with some work on the fan. Since a few weeks ago I figured out I could get it spinning on the other direction by inverting the wires, I now could put the fan behind the radiator. Cut the temporary plastic wraps, slid the fan behind and quickly attached it.
The "official" way to hang the fan on the radiator is using some straps and passing them above and under the rad fins. But I've read several stories of people that had the plastic wraps cut through the fins. So I used those wraps and the holes I had drilled on the rad "lips". Used the rubber washers that came with the fan to make it be away from the rad, thus there is no touching. Connected the battery to ensure that all was working as expected. Very happy with the final result!
Then it was time to get the front prop-catcher attached to the car. Lifted the passenger side with the jack and placed the catcher in place. Glued some masking tape under the car and drew where to drill. With the 90º adapter and a 4,75mmØ drill bit, made the initial hole. From the top with a 10mmØ enlarged it and hand-tightened the catcher in place.
Added the transversal bolt. The idea behind it was to prevent the spearing effect if the front of the prop was to come loose. This was an after-thought and now I believe that it will not work as intended (I hope I never find out) since it's too low and too near the rear of the prop to stop the front hitting the asphalt.
Jack down, jack on the drivers side, more masking tape and the same exercise repeated. It was a bit harder than the other side since I drilled the hole on the catcher 1cm to far from the tip and I had to remeasure a few times to be sure it would be OK with the chassis tubes on the footwell.
This is the final result, from the drivers footwell, from the underside and from the passengers footwell.
After this got the car into neutral, released the handbrake and pushed the car back and forth a bit to be sure the prop was not even near to rubbing the catcher. There is a 5mm slack on the tightest side.
Next is doing the catchers for the rear prop and p-clipping the wire loom in place (at least on the tunnel) so that I can put the tunnel panels and outer panels in. And finish the suspension setup!
The "official" way to hang the fan on the radiator is using some straps and passing them above and under the rad fins. But I've read several stories of people that had the plastic wraps cut through the fins. So I used those wraps and the holes I had drilled on the rad "lips". Used the rubber washers that came with the fan to make it be away from the rad, thus there is no touching. Connected the battery to ensure that all was working as expected. Very happy with the final result!
Added the transversal bolt. The idea behind it was to prevent the spearing effect if the front of the prop was to come loose. This was an after-thought and now I believe that it will not work as intended (I hope I never find out) since it's too low and too near the rear of the prop to stop the front hitting the asphalt.
Jack down, jack on the drivers side, more masking tape and the same exercise repeated. It was a bit harder than the other side since I drilled the hole on the catcher 1cm to far from the tip and I had to remeasure a few times to be sure it would be OK with the chassis tubes on the footwell.
This is the final result, from the drivers footwell, from the underside and from the passengers footwell.
Next is doing the catchers for the rear prop and p-clipping the wire loom in place (at least on the tunnel) so that I can put the tunnel panels and outer panels in. And finish the suspension setup!
Friday, September 14, 2012
Prop-catchers Drilling and Suspension Setup (Starting)
Got a couple of hours to work on the car today, since I took the day of. Went to the car and finished drilling the holes on the prop-catcher plates. Those are now ready to go on the car.
My next step was to begin setting up the suspensions. The first item I needed to see was the ride height. To guide me I have two sources of information: one is a page on the Westfield World site, the other a set of measurements provided by a fellow builder, taken from his car after he had it professionally setup. These measurements are more adequate since his car is also an Aries Locoblade. I also have to guide me this PDF text provided by another builder explaining how to measure and setup camber and toe.
To measure inclination, I used an Android application called Clinometer. I noticed the floor had a 1º inclination.
Builder data said the car should have the lowest point (sump) 8cm above ground. The Westfield guide said the front should be 16,5cm above ground and/or the lower wishbone parallel with the main chassis beam. On first measurement, the sump was almost 7,5cm above the floor. The right-hand wishbone had a 0,5º, thus the outer side higher than the inside (same as -0,5º). The front of the car was around 13,5cm above ground.
To change height, I jacked the chassis up until the right wheel was on the air, taking out pressure from the suspension. Then I rotated the adjusters on the shocks to tighten the coils more. The initial setup had 8 threads showing from the bottom to the adjuster.
Tightened up to have 12 threads showing. Dropped the car on the ground, sump was 9cm above, the front 15cm above and the wishbone had 5º (normalizes to 4º), where the chassis point where the wishbone connects to was higher than the outer tip of the wishbone.
Another adjustment to get the value in-between, keeping 10 threads showing up. Adjusted the other side too and had final measures of 8cm from sump to ground, 13,5cm on the front to the ground and a wishbone inclination of around 2,5º (normalizes to 1,5º).
My fellow builder measurements didn't say about the rear. The Westfield page mentioned around 2cm higher on the rear. With 5 threads showing on both shocks, the rear beam was 16cm above ground, which was perfect.
Finished by adjusting the shocks softness, based on fellow's values. 3 ticks away from soft on the front, 4 on the rear. Notice the shocks are Protech, these values may differ with brand and surely with chassis.
Even with the suspension raised I can't fit the drill under the chassis to open the holes to fit the prop-catcher. I'll have to jack the car up or apply some other strategy. But that will be next time!
My next step was to begin setting up the suspensions. The first item I needed to see was the ride height. To guide me I have two sources of information: one is a page on the Westfield World site, the other a set of measurements provided by a fellow builder, taken from his car after he had it professionally setup. These measurements are more adequate since his car is also an Aries Locoblade. I also have to guide me this PDF text provided by another builder explaining how to measure and setup camber and toe.
To measure inclination, I used an Android application called Clinometer. I noticed the floor had a 1º inclination.
Builder data said the car should have the lowest point (sump) 8cm above ground. The Westfield guide said the front should be 16,5cm above ground and/or the lower wishbone parallel with the main chassis beam. On first measurement, the sump was almost 7,5cm above the floor. The right-hand wishbone had a 0,5º, thus the outer side higher than the inside (same as -0,5º). The front of the car was around 13,5cm above ground.
To change height, I jacked the chassis up until the right wheel was on the air, taking out pressure from the suspension. Then I rotated the adjusters on the shocks to tighten the coils more. The initial setup had 8 threads showing from the bottom to the adjuster.
Tightened up to have 12 threads showing. Dropped the car on the ground, sump was 9cm above, the front 15cm above and the wishbone had 5º (normalizes to 4º), where the chassis point where the wishbone connects to was higher than the outer tip of the wishbone.
Another adjustment to get the value in-between, keeping 10 threads showing up. Adjusted the other side too and had final measures of 8cm from sump to ground, 13,5cm on the front to the ground and a wishbone inclination of around 2,5º (normalizes to 1,5º).
My fellow builder measurements didn't say about the rear. The Westfield page mentioned around 2cm higher on the rear. With 5 threads showing on both shocks, the rear beam was 16cm above ground, which was perfect.
Finished by adjusting the shocks softness, based on fellow's values. 3 ticks away from soft on the front, 4 on the rear. Notice the shocks are Protech, these values may differ with brand and surely with chassis.
Even with the suspension raised I can't fit the drill under the chassis to open the holes to fit the prop-catcher. I'll have to jack the car up or apply some other strategy. But that will be next time!
Sunday, September 9, 2012
Prop-Catchers
Back from vacations away from the car, only had an hour and a bit to be there. Spent it drilling holes on the bigger prop catcher (the U shaped one) and marking the holes on the smaller ones (half moons). Will drill the rest during the week, I hope, one of this nights. There is no justification for pictures.
Sunday, August 26, 2012
Stalling, Prop-catchers and Stalling
After having organized myself a bit and done some shopping (not all is done, though), went to the car for some work. I have to come out on this: I've been stalling and avoiding it because the idea of disassembling parts of what is working to move on are taking my will away. I just want to take it on a track and having to go some steps backwards is feeling painful. Now that this is off my chest...
First thing I did was placing a rubber block behind the clutch peddle. Every time it was pressed down it was hitting the metal of the floorwell behind and the noise was getting on my nerves. Problem solved!
Spent some time thinking how I should straighten up the electrics inside the engine compartment. Wires are hanging out everywhere and I'm even afraid some may get into contact with moving parts. I still have to rivet the main loom with p-clips into the chassis, but for smaller wires I need another solution. At least now I know where to route them near chassis (or engine cradle) rails.
Some time ago I moved the cooling fan from behind the radiator to the front because it was the way the forced air would go through the radiator. The instructions stated the fan was reversible but I disassembled and turned the fan blades around to no avail. In a moment of "inspiration", I switched the wires around et voilá! Now I have to move the fan back to behind the radiator and then fix it in a more definitive way.
Last task was to see if I could put the "U" shaped prop-catcher in without dropping the prop shaft. After taking out the linkage that connects the gear lever to the gear mechanism, and with some wiggling, I managed to get it in place. So I took it out again and marked the pieces for drilling. They are thick metal and I need to drill them in a bench and use the holes as guides when drilling the chassis. The person that made them drilled but those holes are not where I need them... Below are pictures of the prop catchers before treatment and now that they are painted.
First thing I did was placing a rubber block behind the clutch peddle. Every time it was pressed down it was hitting the metal of the floorwell behind and the noise was getting on my nerves. Problem solved!
Spent some time thinking how I should straighten up the electrics inside the engine compartment. Wires are hanging out everywhere and I'm even afraid some may get into contact with moving parts. I still have to rivet the main loom with p-clips into the chassis, but for smaller wires I need another solution. At least now I know where to route them near chassis (or engine cradle) rails.
Some time ago I moved the cooling fan from behind the radiator to the front because it was the way the forced air would go through the radiator. The instructions stated the fan was reversible but I disassembled and turned the fan blades around to no avail. In a moment of "inspiration", I switched the wires around et voilá! Now I have to move the fan back to behind the radiator and then fix it in a more definitive way.
Last task was to see if I could put the "U" shaped prop-catcher in without dropping the prop shaft. After taking out the linkage that connects the gear lever to the gear mechanism, and with some wiggling, I managed to get it in place. So I took it out again and marked the pieces for drilling. They are thick metal and I need to drill them in a bench and use the holes as guides when drilling the chassis. The person that made them drilled but those holes are not where I need them... Below are pictures of the prop catchers before treatment and now that they are painted.
Sunday, August 5, 2012
Preparing Prop-Catchers and Small Fixes
Last Wednesday drove the car again, to move it from the borrowed parking space to mine. It required driving down the step slope to descend two floors. I was a b it worried, since the brakes were not properly bleed, but all was fine. After parking I noticed a small puddle forming on the previously clean floor. Turns out the cooling system had a bracer that was not tight at all and fluid was gushing from it.
Today grabbed the driller, a steel scrub tip for the driller and the prop catchers. Scrubbed the rust out of them and then gave them a lick of black paint, to prepare them to go on the car. I need them there for peace of mind and the front one is where I'll be hanging the speed sensor.
Then went to the car and followed all the cooling pipes, tightening the bolts as I passed through them. Topped up the cooling deposit and I think this one is done.
Have been reading the Digidash manual and it states that if I get "NC" as the reading for a sensor it means is not connected or is not properly hearted. And actually the hearth I had on the oil temp/pressure sensors casing was bust. Crimped a new wire and this time connected it to a bolt that goes through a chassis member. There was a slight oil smear on the casing so I also tightened the sensors and the connection pipe. Also gave a bit of love to the earth on the water temperature sensor, but I think I'll have to revisit this one soon.
Inserted the key on the dash, 1st click for the Digidash to fire up and... No more NCs. With the engine turned off, the oil temperature was 23º, the oil pressure was 0 (probably... no oil being pumped and the remote sensor is positioned high) and the cooling temperature was 0º. Since it's summer, probably the cooling temp was a bit hotter, reassuring me that I'll have to revisit that sensor.
I need to make a catcher deposit for the pipes leaving the carbs and the fuel pump. The one from the fuel pump dribbles and the stains on the floor are getting on my nerves.
I wanted to drive again but had no excuse to do it, so I didn't and now I'm mad at myself for not having done it without an excuse. I need to get it on a track or a long straight!
Today grabbed the driller, a steel scrub tip for the driller and the prop catchers. Scrubbed the rust out of them and then gave them a lick of black paint, to prepare them to go on the car. I need them there for peace of mind and the front one is where I'll be hanging the speed sensor.
Then went to the car and followed all the cooling pipes, tightening the bolts as I passed through them. Topped up the cooling deposit and I think this one is done.
Have been reading the Digidash manual and it states that if I get "NC" as the reading for a sensor it means is not connected or is not properly hearted. And actually the hearth I had on the oil temp/pressure sensors casing was bust. Crimped a new wire and this time connected it to a bolt that goes through a chassis member. There was a slight oil smear on the casing so I also tightened the sensors and the connection pipe. Also gave a bit of love to the earth on the water temperature sensor, but I think I'll have to revisit this one soon.
Inserted the key on the dash, 1st click for the Digidash to fire up and... No more NCs. With the engine turned off, the oil temperature was 23º, the oil pressure was 0 (probably... no oil being pumped and the remote sensor is positioned high) and the cooling temperature was 0º. Since it's summer, probably the cooling temp was a bit hotter, reassuring me that I'll have to revisit that sensor.
I need to make a catcher deposit for the pipes leaving the carbs and the fuel pump. The one from the fuel pump dribbles and the stains on the floor are getting on my nerves.
I wanted to drive again but had no excuse to do it, so I didn't and now I'm mad at myself for not having done it without an excuse. I need to get it on a track or a long straight!
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