Configure Digidash and More

Objective:

Started by connecting the wife's laptop to the Digidash and see what was there and if I could change anything to make the gears and RPM look more sensible (the speedo was great, so nothing to change there).

On the "Gears" tab, changed the primary ratio from 1,521 to 1,000. I don't know why I had that value as the primary, but since I have the engine connected to the diff with a propshaft, I don't think it makes sense for this to be other than 1,0. It makes sense to be more with a sprocket on a chain-driven transmission, which is not the case. Let's hope and see... Pictures of before and after. Gears are from the Haynes manual.

On the "Calibrate" tab just changed the "Gear Cal Factor" to also 1,000 from prior 1,500. The reasoning is the same as above. Pictures for before and after. The "Speedo Cal Factor" was calculated with the DigiDash tools and should be correct because the car's speedo agrees with the phone's GPS in what regards to speed (as observed on track).

Also changed the display of the 1st screen to have, besides oil pressure, temperature and water temp to also show speed and gear. This can thus become my sole screen for track. Upped a bit the brightness of the gear-changing leds.

After this, went for other small things. Wired and placed some isolation tape on the lighter I bought so that I can connect it to the battery and use the tyre pump. Then tested it, the tire pump and the tyre pressure gauge to see how my tires were and prepare them for track. Have now all tires around 1,4BAR (20,3PSI). This should make the car bump a bit less on the track than the previous 1,7BAR I had. My friend (on track tires) recommended 1,3BAR but I have road tires so...

I then tried to see if the right stop was not working because of the plug I crimped. Pulled the plug out and connected the wire directly to the wire that comes from the pod and nothing. But connecting another (live) wire turns the light on, so... It must be something somewhere else. I'll have to ask Steve at Aries, because looking at the wire diagram it makes no sense to me that the left stop works and the right one doesn't. It should be a fail for both. As a last resort, I may consider pulling a wire from the working stop to the other one, although I don't like that (just because it is a workaround and not a solution).

Finally, I started the engine just because, watched it idle a bit, tested all nuts on the wheels and then closed shop.

During this week I'll pull the battery out to charge it. Next Saturday I'll be going on the track day again and I hope I'll have videos etc.