Had today as vacation (tomorrow is a national holiday) and restarted with the ancillaries. Using plastic straps, tied the ignition control unit (through the rubber braces it has on it's casing) on the chassis. Then plugged the wires, that had all been labeled by
Steve from Aries. Also plugged the specific ones to the coil packs.
Next, placed the rectifier roughly around where it will lay and plugged the other cable that came on the ancillaries box. That cable wasn't labeled but most of the wires are easy to tell, specially with the help of the Haynes Manual wiring diagram. So, the rectifier cable was connected to the alternator and to the positive cable that attaches to the battery, with the fuse box in between. Bellow is, besides the part picture, also one of the diagram.
One of the gauges missing was the oil pressure sender. First I had to remove from the engine the old pressure switch. Then connected in it's place the braided hose that came on the Digidash box. Pictures show where the braided hose connects to and the looks of the removed pressure switch. On the end of the braided hose there was a casing with two tappered holes, one for the oil pressure sender and another for the oil temperature sender. The third picture shows that and also the water temp sender on it's casing, on the radiator pipe.
The battery needs some secure way of being held to the car. I've bought a small sheet of ally and the last task of the day was to make some straps. Only one got finished and both will still have to be painted black, but it seems I'll be able to make this one work too. The job at hand was split in two phases: first clamp the sheet down to cut it with the small electrical saw. Then, using a piece of wood and the rubber mallet, bend the metal cuttings to wrap around the battery.
Next time, tasks will be to bolt (or rivet) down the ancillaries, senders and the horn. Also to bolt down the radiator fan. Then will have to crimp cables...
I must take this chance to thank Iain and David for having given me access to their build pictures. They have helped me much and at the current build stage there was lots of information I got through your pictures!
dont put your rectifier on the bulk head panel duarte it has to go at front of engine where there is a constant airflow to keep it cool.i put mine on the bulkhead and it got to hot and burnt out .i think iain burnt his out also.i made a bracket and attatched it at front of engine with 2 little computer fans to keep it cool.
ReplyDeleteThank you very much for telling me that! You just saved my rectifier! Specially because around here the weather is a lot hotter than in the UK.
ReplyDeleteI was still undecided about putting it on the bulkhead or on the panel in front of the passenger footwell (where RHD have the brake cylinders).
Now, I'll try to move it as to the front as possible and also look on the basement for a CPU fan. Probably in the process try to move the battery from the bulkhead to the front of the footwell too, for better weight distribution and to see if the cables stretch enough without having to amend them :)