With yesterday's reading it seemed a lot easier. It pays to do homework. To get correct access to all parts I started by jacking the car up, putting in axle stands on the rear and taking the wheels out. Mental note, next time undo the nuts prior to jacking the car up...
With the proper access to parts, moved the spinning part on the cable sleeve, that is the cable adjuster, way back. Passed only the cables (without sleeves) through the chassis bracket holes and then moved the sleeves over the holes. One has a rubber and plastic that stops against the bracket, on the other the sleeve passes through the hole and is the adjuster that blocks against the bracket. Spinning the adjuster, tension on the cable can later be built. After having it all loosely in place, it was time to fit the other extremities to the callipers.
The calliper has a hole through where the cable and rubber sleeve should pass. The metal sleeve has a tip that kind of slots in there. To get the cable to enter through that hole, it has to come from the rear and bellow. It makes a bit of an odd turn. Held the cable loosely in place with cable ties. I like the way it goes around because it doesn't hit the cv boots (could cut one) nor it gets in the way of suspension movement.
Tightened the adjuster and pulled the cable to test. It worked.
Since the wheels were off and the handbrake pulled, took some time to tighten the wheels' central nut. I'm sure it's not to 270nm, but it's a lot better than before and as much as I managed with the tools at hand.
Then I fit the wheels and jacked the car down. Felt very happy while I stored away the four wood beams I was using to prevent the car from sliding away.
A task that I expected to take 1 hour ended up taking 2h30m.
The bad news of the morning... On the left wheel I sheared one of the wheel stud threads. Was having a hard time undoing the nut and that was because both nut and stud had the thread all broken. I bet it was from when I attempted to pull the stud with washers and a nut... So much grief I've been having because of that early mistake of not hammering the studs down on the right moment... Eventually I guess all the wheel will have to be disassembled to take that stud out and put a new one. But since I just want to see it moving, I'll postpone that. The other three nuts will have to be enough for now. It seems on the right side there is also a stud thread starting to shear, but I didn't tight that nut completely, so it may be OK for now.
Another potential problem... Not sure if I should have pulled the handbrake without having the rear brakes perfectly bled. It seems the calliper pump is a bit "out" and the pads constantly rub the disk. But since with the wheel on I can't see this, it might have been like that before me using the handbrake for the first time.
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